Les Champagnes de Vignerons

Yesterday evening, I had the opportunity to attend an exceptional event that was invite only for Champagne makers, industry professionals and journalist plus guests. The event was held in the former apartment of French film star Alain Delon; considered to be one the most elegant apartments in the French capitol. The apartment sits on the Seine River with a jaw-dropping view of the Eiffel Tower.

The event consisted of 20 champagne makers each showcasing three of their best champagnes, all independent smaller domains, in comparison with some of the more well-known bulk producers. The event was an opportunity for smaller producers to introduce their products to wine sellers and bar owners as well as to the press. It also gave the connoisseur the chance to try an overwhelming variety of Champagnes; to discover the vastness and complexity of fragrance and taste.

No champagne tasting would be complete without a team of chefs and waiters to distribute a variety of treats to amuse the palate, including a sushi chef serving up a variety of fresh fish most of the evening. The variety of food was impressive and visually stunning; many types of fish, rabbit, no less than 25 different cheeses. After all this is France, no event would be complete without an array of amuses-bouches to keep the guest happy.

As I am not technically an industry professional, though through force of habit I have developed quite the palate, I found myself focusing more on some of the not-so-champagne-related aspects of the event. As anyone familiar with wine and champagne tastings knows, an important aspect is advising drinkers on how to pair their champagne with food, usually the job of the sommelier (Mikael's official job title). Many of the rules are quite simple, such as red meat goes with red wine, and white fish with white wine. However, perhaps due to the fact that champagne is considered the "wine of kings", the suggested meals were often extremely complex and distinguished, which is to be expected. Though I contend that some of these suggestions were taking luxury to another level. For example the Champagne Paul Clouet suggests that with their first champagne one dine on a warm pheasant pâté in a crust served alongside a grand veneur sauce. Fair enough. Second champagne deserves no less than lobster cooked in truffle oil and served on a puree of mango and avocado. However, the last champagne should be served with... gazpacho. Well I heard of losing steam at the end of the race, but perhaps our sommelier should have held out a little for that last suggestion. Though I will admit, I could smell notes of tomato and a hint of cucumber.

When attending such an event, you must be prepared for industry talk. The champagne makers tend to be very down to earth; however, those who drink and sell champagne are not. So if your tasting skills are not that finely tuned, avoid questions about the champagne itself other than an obligatory "no, that is absolutely delicious". But you can also expect questions on your profession and your connections to the industry. You can be honest and admit you have no relationship to the industry, and subsequently find yourself standing alone in the middle of the room, or you can do what a very wise woman, named Flore, told me last night. Her suggestion is to say that you work in import/export. Pick a country and stick with it. Her pick was Brazil. The beauty of this strategy is that you remain interesting to the other party guests, while at the same time having an excuse for why you are not sufficiently knowledgeable about champagne but still deserve to be at the event.

I wish I had met her sooner, as my response to any question about champagne was to dip my face in my flute and demand privacy while I pondered the question. People tend to stare at you once they have asked you a question. So that was clearly a losing moment. If I had to pick any other less than stellar performances, the award would go to the champagne Vincent Couche. Vincent Couche had the idea, which must have seemed great at the moment of conception, that instead of business cards he would distribute photos of himself shirtless with a bottle of his champagne photoshopped, seductively, into the photo. Needless to say, the photo was a bigger hit than his champagne. Best champagne of the evening, in my opinion, was Paul Clouet. All three champagnes were light and balanced, very fruity on the nose and good flavor on the tongue. Favorite champagne maker was Bereche & Fils, this winery is run by two brother in their late 20s who are the fifth generation of Bereches to run the family business. The brother present at the event was friendly, knowledgeable and enthusiastic, offering very fine champagne.

Les Champagnes de Vignerons